LEJoG day 12

Hoping for a shorter day after yesterday's (mis)adventures. We paid for a breakfast at the hostel and whilst tucking in to muesli, marmite toast and orange juice with plenty of coffee, we realised how depressing dry pain au chocolat and hotel room coffee had become.

We set out on what should have been a simple 55 miles and it almost immediately started raining. Uphill to Tyndrum and the Green Welly stop, the wind began to pick up. We received a round of applause from a crowd waiting at the bus stop for our efforts.

Continuing on the A82, we paused at a viewpoint (there was no view) at Loch Tulla, for Tracy to deliver an expletive ridden rant about how much she hates Scotland. As we crossed Rannoc moor and towards Glencoe, the wind picked up to 40mph and the rain was unrelenting (T - it was painful!).  We sought temporary shelter at the Glencoe mountain resort. Coffee and lunch followed by lots of prevarication to delay the inevitable departure. 

Chilli con carne on a cold day

Cake of the day 

On the A roads, I always cycle behind Tracy, acting like an ineffective human shield. Today this meant spray from her back wheel ending up in my face. Today's game was positioning myself in the perfect position to be safe under braking and far enough away to avoid the spray. I lost that game almost continually.

We waited as long as possible for a gap in the weather. When one eventually appeared, Scotland had just baited us - shortly after leaving, the rain and wind picked up once more. The A82 is awful, traffic is unrelenting and no cycle provision - Nicholas don't come this way! The (nonexistent) views of Glencoe are not worth it.

The trouble with technology...

...is that the built-in algorithm...

...makes everything look better than it was.

To be fair, what could be seen of Glencoe was seriously impressive but the energy sapping winds and driving rain just coloured the experience. When you are having to pedal hard just to cycle downhill, you know things are bad.

When sometimes we really need you...

...to understand how much it sucked.

Eventually, we were able to get off the A82 and take a minor road towards  Glencoe village.  At that point the wind started to drop, the rain eased and our moods lifted. This, unfortunately was just a brief respite. The rain returned but this time of apocalyptic proportions. The raindrops actually hurt.

We sought shelter once again in the Gathering at Glencoe inn. The manager informed us that the restaurant was closed, but we could use the bar. We sat dripping in the bar area, Tracy looking particularly forlorn. The barman remarked that she looked shell shocked. 

Once our coffees had had their warming effect, I was keen to get going as we still had 20 miles or so to ride. Tracy wanted to stay put but I was extremely unreasonable and forced her out into the rain (Tracy wrote that last bit). We briefly contemplated booking the nearest hotel, but realised that everything was fully booked.

We had more rain, a few tears and mild hypothermia, before the weather relented and decided to let us live after all. Tracy perked up as warmth returned to her limbs and her brain and we picked up the pace. 

We briefly boarded a ferry to Corran, as it was signposted to Fort William. Indeed, it would have been a better route, as you then ride the North shore of Loch Linnhe, to pick up another ferry to Fort William. The ferry man told us that we wouldn't make the last ferry, so we came straight back. It looks on our Strava route like we popped across the loch for a beer at the inn. The warmth of the ferry allowed us to increase our pace once more and by 6:30 we were in Fort William. We grabbed some food for the hostel and continued on to Glen Nevis, at the foot of the UK'S highest mountain.

The day wasn't done with us yet though. In the last mile, Tracy's pannier rack collapsed. Seemingly two bolts had come loose on our journey. Hopefully we can get that sorted in town tomorrow morning.

The hostel is amazing - better than every accommodation that we have had so far.  Tracy immediately jumped into the ensuite shower and then huddled under the duvet until the warmth had returned to her old lady bones. We finished the day with a beer in the lounge and feeling vaguely human again. 

This was the worst day of cycling that I have ever had. It was possibly the worst day of anything that Tracy has ever had. Tomorrow can only be better.

Distance travelled: 55 miles

Elevation: 2721 ft

Cake of the day: Smarties chocolate tiffin slice 

Tracy whinge factor: 10/10 (but all of it justified)

Total distance: 834 miles